2014 - Solo unsupported LEJoG in 5 days

PLANNING

The Idea

The idea for a 5-day ride came from having completed a 6-day LEJoG in 2008 and thinking I could realistically do it faster.  In the intervening years I'd taken part in several events where I'd ridden 200 miles or more on consecutive days - notably London-Edinburgh-London (2009 and 2013) and Paris-Brest-Paris (2011) audaxes, as well as cycling from London to Montrose (540 miles) twice in under 56 hours.  That being the case, I was reasonably confident in being able to achieve the mileage required for a 5-day LEJoG (around 175 miles per day average), providing the weather wasn't too hostile.

Route

In the last couple of years I'd started thinking about possible routes and stop-over locations, and gradually settled on the final plan - a shortish first day taking account of the Cornish and Devon hills, a substantially longer second day (as this stage was fairly flat), and then dividing the remaining distance in three.  That more or less dictated where the stop-overs would be: 

Land's End - Bridgwater (162 miles)

Bridgwater - Warrington (202 miles)

Warrington - Moffat  (167 miles)

Moffat - Newtonmore  (164 miles)

Newtonmore - JoG  (163 miles)

I had help on the route from members of the CTC's LEJoG forum, notably Mick Fairhurst, a true veteran and font of all knowledge having completed several end-to-ends.  To achieve the speeds required I knew this would mean using mostly main roads, which I am fairly comfortable with.  My route varied from my 2008 one in two main respects - I stayed in England rather than crossing the Severn, and from Carlisle to Edinburgh I took the far nicer roads via Moffat instead of staying on the A7.  Both these changes were a real improvement.

Now I had the basic plan I could start booking accommodation and the train tickets to Penzance.  This is a real motivation - I had committed myself to a date and spent a considerable amount of money - always helps to concentrate the mind!

Below are the tracklogs of my ride, apart from day 3 (when my GPS unit stopped recording at Carlisle for some strange reason) which is a route file.

LEJoG 1 of 5LEJoG 1 of 5

LEJoG 2 of 5LEJoG 2 of 5

LEJoG 3 of 5LEJoG 3 of 5

LEJoG 4 of 5LEJoG 4 of 5

LEJoG 5 of 5LEJoG 5 of 5

Time of Year

I decided on a start date as near to the summer solstice as possible to give maximum daylight hours.  Also, from bitter experience in previous years, I've concluded that the UK's prevailing south-westerly winds don't really set in until the 1st of June.  Many times in May I've fought northerly winds when cycling to Scotland, only to see them abating and turning 180 degrees a couple of weeks later.  This isn't scientific, but is backed up by speaking to others, and was even referenced in a weather article I read somewhere!  

So a start date of Sunday 8th of June was decided upon.

Travel Arrangements

Then there was the issue of how to get from John o'Groats to Montrose (where I'd be holidaying after the ride).  I knew from last time how frustrating it can be trying to book a bike on Scotrail trains south.  I also remembered seeing the Orkneys across the water from John o'Groats and thinking how nice they looked, and so close!  On exploring the ferry routes I realised I could get a foot ferry to Orkney and then an overnight ferry from Kirkwall to Aberdeen, leaving a short train ride to Montrose.  Total cost - £48, and allowing a day to explore Orkney.

Training

I've reached the grand old age of 58 but as yet haven't started to slow down since I started cycling a lot eight years ago - I know this from doing timed laps of Richmond Park.  Age is a factor though - I want to achieve my personal goals whilst still relatively able!

Over the winter months I went to the gym two or three times a week, dividing my time between fixed weights (concentrating on quad development), one-hour full-on cycle trainer sessions to the point of exhaustion, and Pilates classes, which I am convinced help with keeping back/neck/general problems at bay during long days in the saddle.

This year I didn't do much actual road cycling - just a couple of middle-distance audaxes and a few solo rides of around 100 miles as fast as I could manage, usually averaging around 16mph.  

A month before the start date I spent two weeks cycling in the High Atlas mountain of Morocco, including several climbs of over 2,000 metres.  Very good training and highly recommended as a place to cycle!

The Bike

I'm still using the Van Nicholas Yukon I bought in 2007.  I've tweaked the set-up over the years and think I've achieved the ideal ride position.  The shallow-drop bars have gel inserts and are double wrapped to minimise nerve damage in the hands.  The saddle is a Brooks Swallow titanium, only a couple of years old but nicely worn in and (providing I remember to use enough Sudocrem) keeps sores at bay.  I also use Specialized Footbeds in my shoes and that has greatly reduced the incidence of the dreaded "hotfoot".

Just before the ride I replaced the bottom bracket, all inner cables, chain and pedals.  This resulted in a completely silent drive-train - a thing of joy!  I also replaced my usual 23mm tyres with Michelin Pro 4 Endurance 25's.  This was to minimise the chance of punctures and to allow a slightly reduced tyre pressure and therefore a more comfortable ride.  I was also interested to see how they would perform over that kind of distance.  They did remarkably well - not a single puncture and they still look as new. Recommended!

I can't emphasise enough how important it is to have tested the ride position (as well as the saddle, bars and pedals) extensively before attempting consecutive long days.  It will make the difference between an enjoyable ride and a thing of great misery - and possibly even doing lasting physical damage to your body.  In the past I've suffered damaged nerves in the hands and feet and scarring on my rear end that takes weeks to heal and makes sitting in the saddle after a couple of days extremely uncomfortable.

Finally there is the issue of deciding what you need to take with you on the ride.  My gear list has been developed over many long rides and includes a seemingly large number of items, which none the less all comfortably pack into a rear rack-top bag - no need for panniers or bar bag which carry a penalty in weight and wind resistance. For what it's worth here's my list - yours will vary:

Clothing

Lusso gel shorts

Merino long sleeve base layer

Submerino base layer

Merino short sleeve jersey

Short-fingered gloves

Sunglasses 

Socks

Cycle shoes w. footbed inserts

Spare clothing

Long-fingered gloves

Long fingered glove liners

Gill eVent waterproof jacket

Berghaus waterproof hat

Merino cap

Spare socks

Sealskin socks

Leg warmers

Merino buff

Hi-viz gilet

Helmet

Night sunglasses

Tools
Garmin Vista HCx
Wired cycle computer

Tape

Pump

Allen keys

Spare tubes x 2

Spare gear/brake cable

Spare hex bolts

Small screwdriver

Small pliers

Chain splitter

Cable ties

Puncture patches

Spare spokes

Oil

Rackpack waterproof cover

Brooks saddle cover

IQ Ixon + Smart front lights

Rear light + mudguard light

Spare lithium AA & AAA batteries

Spare computer battery

General

Drink bottles 750cl x 2

Spare drink powder

NUUN tablets

Imodium

Pro Plus

Caffeine gum

Sudocrem

Ibuprofen

Toothpaste + brush 

Lip salve

Ear plugs

Eye mask

Plastic bags

Wet wipes

Cable lock

Mobile charger + spare battery

Mobile + h.phones

Debit/credit cards & cash

Daily split mileage chart
List of bike shops along route

THE RIDE

I had decided at an early stage that I would stay on the A30 from Penzance as long as possible, to reduce both the distance and climbing required on the first day.  I know from reputation how busy and potentially dangerous this road can be, so to minimise the misery I would set off at 4am on a Sunday when it would be quiet, and on reaching Launceston at 80 miles (by which time the traffic would be getting busy and unpleasant) I could turn off and take quieter roads to link up with the A38.

I took the precaution of wearing a very hi-viz gilet I'd ordered from a seller on ebay with the text "Land's End to John o'Groats in 5 Days" printed on the back - not bad for under £5!  I also kept my 1-watt flashing rear light on at all times when on busy roads - even on a bright day these can be seen by motorists several hundred yards away.  I even succumbed to pressure from relatives and wore a helmet - a practice I usually shun!  All these precautions worked well and I had very few problems with close overtaking vehicles over the 5 days.

The first two days went as planned.  Day one saw the worst of the hills behind me and the long day two (just over 200 miles) really made inroads to the overall mileage.  I knew that with these two days under my belt then it should be relatively easy from then on - and so it proved.  I always think it's a good idea to front-weight long rides so you can tackle the hard stages when you are fresh and full of enthusiasm!  It also instills a sense of achievement which is psychologically important.

The final three days settled into a predictable pattern with distances comfortably covered and destinations reached by early evening.  I had some pleasant encounters along the way.  Thanks to my inscribed gilet, many people gave me encouragement, including an Edinburgh bus driver who opened his sliding door at traffic lights on Princess St to wish me well, and an old lady who flagged me down of the hard shoulder of a dual carriageway and offered money for my charity (I had to explain there wasn't one, but thanked her anyway!).  There were many warm hand-shakes from other cyclists and I generally felt as though I had the good will of people interested in cycling wherever we met.

The weather was kind to me almost throughout.  I had fairly strong tailwinds on three days and the rest of the time it was either from the side or very light.  There was only one 20-mile section going almost due west from Pitlochry on the A9 with a strong headwind and that was tough, as this is also a gradual climb and is very exposed.  But that was the worst of the wind problems, for which I was extremely thankful.

Temperatures were warm for the time of year, rarely dropping below 12c even at night.  The only issue I had was with the constant rain showers, of which there were several every day.  Each one meant stopping to put on rain clothes, only to have to stop 20 minutes later to take them off again.  The showers were heavy enough to warrant wet-weather gear and I know from experience if I keep waterproofs on for too long when the sun comes out again then I rapidly overheat if pushing hard (even resulting in a mild case of hyperthermia on one occasion in the past - not recommended!)

DAILY ROUTINE

Each day I set the alarm for 3.30am, and after eating the food I'd bought the night before and getting prepared, I'd be ready to set off around 4.15, by which time it was already getting light outside.  I only used my front lights for a few minutes each morning (and never in the evening).  Again, I find early starts really useful psychologically - by 8am when you see people going to work you've already cycled 50 miles and taken a big chunk out of the day's target distance. You can also enjoy the roads when they are at their quietest.

I also packed some food each morning so I wouldn't need to go to shops until the afternoon.  My first stop each day was at the 80-mile mark - I'd eat whatever was in my bag which only took a few minutes.  Depending on the total day's target my next stop would be at around 115-130 miles, when I'd need to buy food and drink from a shop (or maybe a cafe).  Then one final stop 20 miles or so from my destination when I'd buy stuff for that night's supper and the next day's breakfast, together with some "emergency" snacks. 

So a total of 3 shortish stops per day (not including stopping to change clothing, fiddle with GPS, mobile, etc).  This really helps to keep you progressing - it's amazing how much time can be wasted on a ride by messing about without realising it!  Also short breaks keep you muscles warm and working properly.

By following this daily routine I'd reach my destination at between 5pm and 7pm, allowing plenty of time to wash, eat, send texts and even watch a bit of TV.  I find I can't get to sleep before 9pm so don't even try.  In reality I got about 5-6 hours sleep per night, aided by an eye-mask and ear plugs.

During the day I'd go through phases of the "dozies" and find myself losing concentration and slowing down.  That's when the caffeine gum comes in very useful - as I don't drink caffeine normally these things have a drastic effect on me and I'm fully alert within minutes of starting to chew!

Another motivation for me is listening to music on headphones.  I know this is controversial but I've been doing it for many years and feel entirely safe providing I keep my line on the road and do plenty of shoulder checks when needed.  The way I see it, if you're going to be wiped out by a truck from the rear then being able to hear every HGV approaching isn't going to make the slightest difference.  I wouldn't attempt to justify it as a practice for everyone, but it keeps me entertained for hours on end and the miles fly by.  I know I'd get very bored riding the same road for 100 miles on my own otherwise.  In fact one of the main aspects of my preparation for long rides is making up playlists of songs I know I'll want to listen to!

Another "trick" I utilise is to never look at the time when riding.  I'm always aware of my mileage and will have a list of the distance between towns or waypoints along the route, so can judge roughly when I will reach the next target.  That way I can break the day down into chunks of 20-30 miles and never think "Wow - another 140 miles to go".  It's never more than 20 miles or so until the next destination!  But I don't find knowing the time useful - in fact I enjoy being in a sort of timeless zone and almost being in a world of my own.  Usually when I approach my destination and check the time it comes as a pleasant surprise, and I always have hours to spare (thanks to the early starts).

POSTSCRIPT

I arrived at John o'Groats at 6pm on Thursday 12th June feeling remarkably well - both body and bike were completely problem free and I actually felt as though I could carry on for several more days (although I was  very glad at being able to have a lie-in the next morning!).

I took the foot-ferry over to Orkney at 9am on Friday morning and spent the day cycling round the mainland, visiting Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar.  It was an overcast day but made for a pleasant day's wind-down ride, and I ate very good fish and chips in Kirkwall - twice!  The overnight ferry to Aberdeen was fine and from there you can get main-line trains anywhere in the country (some routes require booking your bike in advance so be sure to check this).

CONCLUSION

So that's that!  Six years in conception and six months of planning and hard training and I'm pleased to say everything went as expected.  I was undoubtedly lucky with the weather - I knew from the outset that if I had strong winds against me every day then I wouldn't make my targets and would have to abandon the ride.  I was mentally prepared for that eventuality but extremely glad it didn't happen!

So I can stop thinking about how fast I can do a LEJoG!  I reckon five days is realistically the shortest unsupported time for an amateur. Four days or less would be do-able with a support team and riding in a group with drafting, but that's an entirely different thing.  Personally I really like the self-reliance of unsupported rides and escaping into your own zone for a few days.

To anyone considering trying this - feel free to ask any questions and I'll help if I can.  And good luck!

Update - August 2012

I've noticed that quite a few people are still reading this each week so I thought an update might be of interest.

The 2008 LEJoG was really the start of my long-distance cycling proper (although I'd cycled to from London to Montrose in Scotland a couple of times before).  Since then I've successfully completed Auxax UK's flagship London-Edinburgh-London (2009) and Paris-Brest-Paris (2011), both well within the time limits and without any real problem (other than the dreadful weather for LEL!).

I've also started cycle touring with a friend once a year and have so far visited:

2009:  Outer Hebrides and Scottish west coast (including Bealach na Ba)

2010:  Pyrenees and the Cevennes (including an off-road Pyrenees pass at 2000m)

2011:  Southern Spanish sierras (including a failed attempt at the Sierra Nevada - closed because of snow despite temperatures of 45c and an extended heatwave in mid-summer!)

2012:  Mainland Greece (including the snow hills of the north-west - Greece is generally very hilly!)

I've also continued cycling up to Montrose from London every year, each time adjusting the route slightly to avoid unpleasant sections or make it more direct.  The last 2 years I've managed it in 3 days - 190m on the first two and a final day of around 130m.

I'm now in the final stages of planning my next LEJoG attempt for next year (2013).  It will be done over 5 days and I've tweaked the route a bit.  Not necessarily more main road - in fact I'm exploring alternatives for bits I didn't particularly enjoy.  For example there's apparently an "old" road that runs alongside the A9 from Pitlochry to Inverness (where I had the "dozies" in 2008).

My new route also stays east of the Welsh border this time, allowing for better progress on the second day, though I'll be sorry to miss the delights of the Wye valley.  I'll also be incorporating a change to the route from Longtown to Edinburgh.  Rather than staying on the A7 I'll be going on minor roads to Moffat via Locherbie (shadowing the course of the motorways) and from there to Edinburgh on the A701.  I trialled this bit of the route in July this year for the first time and it is a real delight - great road surfaces but very little traffic, and wonderful scenery.

My proposed stopovers are:

Day 1:  Bridgewater (Travelodge)

Day 2:  Warrington (Travelodge)

Day 3:  Moffat (B&B)

Day 4:  Kingussie (B&B)

Day 5:  JoG

The daily distances will be 180 miles or thereabouts.  From experience this means 14-16 hour days of which 12-14 in the saddle, so still time for a decent night's sleep.

I'm also toying with the idea of avoiding the fraught return rail journey from Wick to Aberdeen (and obtaining a precious cycle reservation) by getting the short ferry ride to the Orkneys and then the overnight ferry from Kirkwall to Aberdeen, the cost of which will be more than offset by saving a night's B&B.

Anyway, that's the plan, and unless anything untoward arises I'll be setting off on the train back down to Penzance next year.  I'll update this blog or link to another if I'm successful.

Good luck everyone!

UPDATE: March 2014

The 5-day ride is now happening in June this year.  Route planned, accommodation booked and training well underway (including a trip to the Atlas Mountains in May).

Just praying for good weather!  If it's really bad then I'll struggle with the daily mileages.

UPDATE: June 2014

I completed the 5-day LEJoG earlier this month in the planned 5 days, again solo and unsupported.  All went well including the return trip via the Orkneys.

I'll either start a new blog for the 5-day ride or more likely write a full report here in due course.  In the meantime if anyone has any questions or would like help planning their ride then please ask.

My profile

I'm 52 and have been cycling fairly long distances for a couple of years.  This started in 2006 with the idea of cycling from London to Montrose in Scotland, a place which I go on holiday each year.  I wondered if it would be possible to cycle up rather than take the train as usual, so I looked for ideas for a route and found the Audax UK's website with the London-Edinburgh-London information.  I used their route as the basis, with a couple of tweaks and an addition past Edinburgh up to Montrose.

That first ride was on my only bike at the time, a heavy old Saracen steel-framed mountain bike which I had found in a skip in Chelsea some years before.  The trip took 5 days, averaging just over 100m per day and stopping at youth hostels along the way.  Conditions were good and the whole episode was thoroughly enjoyable - I was hooked!

The following year I repeated the exercise, this time cutting a day off the schedule bringing the daily average up to around 135m per day for the 4 days.  This I achieved, but at some cost because the conditions were abysmal with rain and strong headwinds for the majority of the time.  By that time I had replaced the Saracen with a Dawes Audax road bike, but even so the whole trip was a real slog and left me exhausted and somewhat dispirited about distance cycling.

However, as the months passed, the bad memories faded and I began planning what seemed the next logical step, a Land's End to John o'Groats for 2008.  My research turned up a great site by 2 guys who had completed the trip in 7 days - www.lejog06.co.uk  This became my target.  Again I adjusted their route slightly on the advice of others, mainly on the CTC forum who had extensive local knowledge of the areas I was planning to travel through.

As I studied my proposed schedule I realised that the mileages were weighted towards the first three days, the last four being somewhat easier at just over 100m per day, and so I decided to see if I could cover the second half in 3 days rather than 4, bringing the total to 6 days.  My thinking was that, if I was going to undertake this trip at all, I'd likely only do it the once, so why not try and do it in the shortest time possible (for me!).

So the 6-day trip took root and I started to plan the stop-overs and book the accommodation, all the time keeping an eye on the long-term weather forecast!

The equipment

The bike for the LEJoG was my Van Nicholas Yukon fitted with Ultegra/Dura Ace drivetrain and Open Pro/Dura Ace wheels running Michelin Pro3 Race 23mm tyres.

Navigation was using a bar-mounted Garmin eTrex Vista HCx loaded with routes planned using the Marengo website.  I used a cheapo wired computer from Aldi (under a fiver!) which is totally reliable and gives me accurate mileages, speeds, averages, etc.

Clothes worn:

Merino long-sleeved base layer

Padded undershorts

Crane lycra tights

Gill cycle shorts (worn over tights)

Cycle socks

dhb short-sleeved cycle jersey

Short-fingered gloves

Sunglasses

Spare clothes:

Gill eVent waterproof jacket

Goretex waterproof hat

Sealskinz waterproof socks

Long-fingered gloves

Spare cycle socks (1 pair)

Spare padded undershorts

Gill long-sleeved jersey (worn over short-sleeved jersey)

Tools:

Spare spokes (2)

Cable ties (12)

2 cable locks

Small pliers

Small screwdriver

Chain splitter

Spare brake & gear cable

3 allen keys (to fit all bike parts)

Park glueless patches

2 Park tyre levers

Patches & solution (small tube)

Spare tube (1)

Mini pump

Nivea wet wipes (2)

Other gear:

Night-vision glasses

Decaf tea-bags

Water bottles (2)

Maps (scanned from atlas & cut down)

Cash & credit cards

Mobile with headphones & mains charger

Front and read LCD lights

Spare AA & AAA batteries for Garmin & lights

Plastic bags

Pen & pencil

Drapolene (used as saddle cream)

Dycloflex 50mg anti-inflammatory pain killers

Contact lens case & glasses

Spare contact lenses

Mouthwash

Toothpaste & toothbrush

Lip salve

All my gear was carried in a Creek2Peak Discovery rack bag mounted on a lightweight rear rack.  The bag has an expandable section to accommodate food bought at the end of each day.

Training & preparation

I decided to take training a bit more seriously this year.  On my visits to the gym I started following a power training interval programme on the cycle trainer, along with a course of pilates classes.   This seemed to help with both speed and endurance, leading to me getting under the 1 hour mark for 3 laps of Richmond Park (20 miles) for the first time in April.

I also tried several audaxes in February & March (100k - 200k), my first sportive (The White Horse Challenge) in April and the Isle of Wight Randonee.  All of these were useful in matching my progress against other cyclists, as well as being good fun in their own right.  On Sunday mornings (when possible) I went on informal club runs with a group based in Crouch End - these varied from 40 - 70 miles.

The day before - London to Penzance

With all the gear packed and the bike checked I headed off to Paddington to get the train to Penzance.  From the window I could see all the vertiginous valleys and hills that I will have to ride tomorrow and was slightly daunted.  I hadn't been to Cornwall for many years and I'd forgotten how hilly it is.

Arriving at Penzance on a dull and rainy Saturday evening I switched on the Garmin and navigated my way to the village of Sennen where I would be staying that night.  I checked in at the Sunny Bank Hotel then set off in search of somewhere to eat.  The first two places I try had either stopped serving for the evening or (more likely) don't want someone dressed in cycling gear eating in their establishment.  I am pointed in the direction of a pub down in the bay.

I ordered a meal and noticed another cyclist sitting at a nearby table, so asked him if he is doing the end-to-end also, which he is.  Over food we discuss our routes and schedules.  As we talk I think about the hills I had seen from the train earlier and a plan forms for an alternative, flatter route for the next morning.  I had originally intended to take smaller roads through Helston, Truro and St Austell, but I realised that as I would be leaving early on a Sunday morning I should be OK to stay on the notorious A30.

Pleased with my last-minute route change I said goodnight to Crankie (his CTC forum name) and headed off to bed.

Day 1 - Land's End to Tiverton

The alarm goes off at 3.30am and I am packed and ready to go by 4.15.  Downhill the few miles to Land's End to take a couple of photos (the "official" signposts won't be put up until 10am - apparently they get stolen if left out!) and then I'm off.

I quickly realised that, not only was there a persistent drizzle but the wind was blowing from the ENE - i.e. a headwind.  This wasn't such a surprise as it had been predicted by the forecasts. In fact there had been a predominantly easterly wind for the entire preceding month, very unusual and not very welcome.

As expected the A30 was almost deserted at that time of the morning and I made good progress following it's long, sweeping hills and gentle descents.  By around 10am the rain had relented and the sun was trying to break through.  As the traffic was now starting to build up, a quick look at the map showed me that I could take the A38 south-east to Liskeard where I could join my pre-planned route.

Whereas the A30 had been gradual gradients, the roads from now on became like a switchback ride, especially the stretch from Liskeard to Tavistock - severe climbs and descents that were too steep to cruise down as they were twisty and dark, often overhung by trees; so the brakes were covered (and used) for many of these.

Now came the second decision.  At Tavistock I could either go straight on over Dartmoor or head north to Okehampton.  I had been warned that the exposed slopes of Dartmoor could be very draining in certain conditions, namely in headwinds and rain.  As there was still a persistant ENE wind of around 15mph and it looked as if it could rain at any time I took the north fork to Okehampton.

The rest of the day was uneventful, with the hills becoming gradually less steep as I left Cornwall and traversed Devon and equal amounts of sun and cloud.  I arrived at my evening stop around 5pm, a Travelodge a few miles to the east of Tiverton.  When I checked in I was told that Travelodge customers got a 25% reduction off food at the adjoining Little Chef so, with my bike safely locked up in my room I surprised the waiter by ordering two main courses.

A long soak in the bath and several phone-calls later and I was in bed by 9pm!

STATS:

Depart:       4.20am

Arrive:        5.00pm

Distance:    144.4 miles

Ride time:  10.54

Av. speed:   13.4mph

Temp:         12 - 17c

Wind:          13 - 28mph NE (headwind)

Weather:    Cloudy, drizzle, sunny spells in afternoon

Day 2 - Tiverton to Leominster

As I was leaving the Travelodge at 4.30 I realised that my rear LED light was out of batteries, which was a worry because I was setting out in darkness, and anyway liked to keep the back light flashing even in daylight when on dual carriageways and busy A roads.  Luckily the night porter found a few AAA's in his cupboard which seemed to work.

Getting outside I was hit by the low temperature, showing as 7c on my computer.  This forced me to ride fairly briskly for the first few miles just to keep warm, and I was soon crossing the border into Somerset.  

The terrain was flat and I made good speed until I reached a very long hill south of Bristol which seemed to go on forever.  Once over this, I approached the outskirts of Bristol, where I got lost in the one-way system for 20 minutes or so, going round in circles.  Finally I found my way to Avonmouth and then up to the Severn Road Bridge, where I was met by a disembodied voice from the control room telling me which way to go to the cycle-path.

Over the bridge and into Wales, I headed north through Chepstow and onto the very pretty road which follows the river through the Wye valley.  I met a couple of heavily-laden cyclists coming the other way - they are on the 18th day of an end-to-end going south and have had a tailwind every day but one!  So my loss is at least their gain.

The hills pick up as I continue up through Hereford and back into England, and by 3pm I had reached my destination of Leominster (today was the shortest day at just 125 miles).  There was a sign on the door of the Youth Hostel saying it didn't open until 5pm, so I headed into town to do a bit of shopping.

Back at the hostel I was given the keys to my private room, which was basic (to put it politely).  After making up the bed I realised that there would be no relaxing bath, or even a shower, for me that evening as there were no towels supplied.  With nothing to do and not even a chair to sit on, I wandered up to the TV lounge - a bad mistake, as I encountered a very talkative Welsh woman who spent a solid hour telling me about the tribulations of walking in the countryside (being attacked by cows and getting tangled in barbed wire).  I didn't even get a chance to watch the news on TV as she was looking at a soap opera she had recorded whilst out.  Vaguely depressed I headed off to bed, vowing not to stay at a Youth Hostel again.

STATS:

Depart:       4.30am

Arrive:        3.00pm

Distance:    125 miles

Ride time:  9.05

Av. speed:  13.8mph

Temp:         7 - 16c

Wind:         10 - 25mph ENE (headwind)

Weather:    Sunny morning, cloudy afternoon

Total distance so far:   265

Day 3 - Leominster to Garstang

Again I set off at 4.30am.  It was a bit warmer and the wind was from due east, meaning it was a side wind rather than a headwind for the first time since starting on Sunday.  Most of the day was spent on the A49 and the A6, much of that dual carriageway.  The most surprising event was seeing a horse and rider, decked out as a US civil war soldier carrying aloft a large flag, coming the other way on the hard shoulder.  No idea what that was about, and as I was going downhill at a fair speed at the time I didn't stop to take a picture.

From Warrington onwards the route was fairly built-up, with many roundabouts and traffic lights slowing me down.  Just before Wigan I heard a clunking noise coming from my rear wheel, and on stopping and flicking the bike over saw a 3" wood screw sticking out of the rear tyre sidewall.  Glad that it wasn't something more serious I unscrewed the screw, checked the tyre (which remarkably looked OK) and fitted the spare inner tube.

The rest of the day was uneventful and just after 4pm I rolled into Garstang and navigated my way down to the motorway and the Travelodge.  I was running the bath when I heard a loud "moo" from outside my window.  When I pulled the net curtains aside I saw a cow just a few feet away looking curiously at me.  A long soak and a meal at the service station later and I was in bed by 9.30.

STATS:

Depart:       4.30am

Arrive:        4.15pm

Distance:    145 miles

Ride time:  9.40

Av. speed:  14.7mph

Temp:         8 - 16c

Wind:         8 - 12mph E (sidewind)

Weather:   Cloudy with sunny intervals

Total distance so far:  415 miles

Day 4 - Garstang to Dalkeith

The big one!  For some reason whilst planning the route I'd managed to combine the longest day with the hilliest day - 170 miles over Shap and the borders.  I only realised this slight miscalculation when it was too late and all the accommodation was booked.  Oh well!

Another 4.30 start.  It was getting harder and harder to rouse myself this early, but with half the journey completed (well almost) I managed to find the motivation and headed off along the back-roads from the motorway service station to meet up with the A6.  It was going to be a simple day for navigation - the A6 to Carlisle then the A7 all the way to Dalkeith.

Today the wind was from the SE and slightly helping, and I was soon through Kendal and at the foothills of Shap Fells.  The ascent was long but not too steep and not as bad as I was fearing, and by 8am I was over the top and enjoying a sausage roll bought from a bakery in the village of Shap.  A couple of hours later and I'd reached Carlisle.

As I was going through the town centre in a cycle lane I was suddenly sprawling on the pavement - I'd been bumped off the bike by an overtaking HGV truck.  It was a narrow road and he must have thought it was better to enter the cycle lane and risk killing me than waiting for the traffic to clear.

When the initial surprise had worn off and I'd had a quick look at the bike (which was luckily OK) I was overtaken by a surge of anger and adrenaline.  I chased up to the off-side of the HGV which had stopped at traffic lights 100 yards up the road.  I shouted at the driver but he pointedly ignored me, so I grabbed the handle of his cab door and pulled it open.  I suggested he park up and come with me to the police station over the road so I could report the incident (as well as directing some fairly pointed language at him regarding his driving!)  He pulled his door closed and started to drive away, so determined to leave him with something to think about I slammed his door with my left hand as hard as I could.  Glad that I was OK but still shaken, I regained my composure and set off up the A7.

A little further north I reached a stretch of road that I was familiar with, the 20 miles from Longtown to Langholm, which I had travelled the previous 2 years whilst following the London-Edinburgh-London route to Montrose.  Just north of Longtown is the English/Scottish border, a great psychological boost.  Once in Langholm I saw the junction where in previous years I had branched off towards the beautiful B roads that wind through the borders - but today I was staying on the A7 and aiming directly for Edinburgh.

The hills for the rest of the day were significant but not as bad as the switchback ride of Cornwall, and following gentler contours than the B roads through Eskdalemuir.  Through Hawick and Galashiels, I was rewarded with a wonderful 6-mile descent sweeping down the A7 to the outskirts of Edinburgh, maintaining a speed around 30mph for the whole way.

A right turn later and I was in Dalkeith.  Not liking the look of the area, I didn't want to leave my bike unattended, so ate a chinese takeaway in a bus shelter before looking for the B&B, an old farmhouse that was now curiously in the middle of a massive ongoing housing development, so much so that the roads on my GPS no longer existed and I had to clamber around newly-erected fences.

Finally there I settled down to watch some football on the TV.  As the evening wore on I became aware of a pain in my left hand, which was slowly but surely swelling up.  I initially thought it was because of handlebar vibration or some other kind of cycling-related injury, but then I remembered the earlier incident in Carlisle when I'd slammed the HGV door.  As the swelling and pain got progressively worse I got really worried that I wouldn't be able to continue cycling the next morning, and that all my plans would be dashed.

I called my friend Mark in London and asked him to check the internet for information about some anti inflammatory pain killers which I had brought with me (prescribed for an earlier injury).  Between us we decided I should take 2 of these that evening and another 2 in the morning before setting off.  Very anxious, I went to bed, but found it hard to sleep.

STATS:

Depart:       4.30am

Arrive:        5.30pm

Distance:    169 miles

Ride time:  11.51

Av. speed:   13.9 mph

Temp:         10 - 17c

Wind:          8 - 12 mph ESE (side/following)

Total distance so far:  592 miles

Day 5 - Dalkeith to Carrbridge

I woke up early at 2.30am after only 4 hours of fitful sleep and anxiously checked my hand.  It was still painful and swollen, but at least it was no worse that last night.  I couldn't get back to sleep so I took 2 more pain killers and lay awake waiting for the alarm to go off.  At 5am I was finally ready to leave, and gently tried to grip the handlebars.  It seemed OK, if still very uncomfortable, so I decided to take it easy for the first few hours.  Dawn was breaking as I reached Edinburgh and proceeded out to the bridge by way of the dreadful Sustrans cycle-route.  

By the time I reached Perth I was starting to feel tired, which I put down to lack of sleep, but as I carried on I realised this was no ordinary tiredness.  I was literally falling asleep as I rode, and was only able to continue by following the white line on the left of the carriageway like some kind of robot.  

Another phone call to Mark and we decided that the pain killers were making me dangerously drowsy.  He remembered that I haven't had caffeine for years and suggested I find some as soon as possible.  I took a short detour into Pitlochry and went into the bike shop.  I explained my problem and one of the staff took pity on me and donated some energy gells with added caffeine (free!).  Not wanting to take any chances I also bought some sports drink with dangerously high levels of caffeine, which I drank straight away before heading north on the A9.

Slowly, and without realising it, I regained my energy and was soon speeding through the wonderful scenery of the highlands.  The sun came out and was bouncing off the snow-capped mountains in the distance.  The wind was from the south-east again and I was bombing along at speeds up to 30mph for mile after mile - so different from my snail's pace of that morning!

The road swept west, then back east again, and by 5pm I had reached my destination of Carrbridge, a beautiful small town nestled in a forested area a few miles north of Aviemore.  I was made welcome by Shona at the Pine Ridge B&B (www.pineridgecarrbridge.com), who went out of her way to prepare some food I had bought from the local shop, augmented by some home cooking.  In the evening I chatted with Shona and her husband Alan about my trip so far, and about their golfing, sailing and other sporting interests.  Pine Lodge was by far the nicest B&B I had stayed at that week, if not ever!  Many thanks to both of them.

A long soak in the bath and an early night.  The caffeine was wearing off and I was ready for a long sleep!

STATS:

Depart:        5am

Arrive:         5pm

Distance:     145 miles

Ride time:   10.11

Av. speed:   14.1 mph

Temp:          12 - 18c

Wind:           8 - 12 mph ESE (side/following)

Total distance so far:  735

Day 6 - Carrbridge to John o'Groats

The final push!  It was cold as I set off at 5am, registering 6c on my computer, so I put my Gill waterproof on over my usual three other layers.  The raincoat would stay on until well into the afternoon.  It was cloudy and there was a very nasty 25mph headwind slowing me down.  The adverse conditions made themselves felt all too well as I rose up the Slochd summit and then down and over the exposed bridges north of Inverness on the A9. 

This helped me make my decision about the final day route.  When planning the trip I had mapped out 2 routes - the first going due north on smaller roads through the heart of the highlands, reaching the north coast at Tongue and heading east to Thurso, a total of 170 miles.  The second was the more direct, but hillier, A9 through Wick.  With the wind, cold and cloud I decided on the quickest way, and so on reaching Alness I stayed on the A9 and headed up the coast.

It was hard going and I was averaging around 12mph.  The landscape was wonderful but I was in no mood to appreciate it.  Near Dornoch I stopped into a transport cafe and had my first cup of "regular" (i.e. caffinated) tea I'd drunk in over 6 years.  As I left I bumped into two guys (Laurence and Mark) from Edinburgh Uni on a tandem who were also going north on a LEJoG.  They were on day 9, having had problems getting down to Land's End on the first day which messed up their hopes for a 7 or 8 day trip.

We set off together for a few miles, and the company helped me pick up my speed.  I dropped back to take photos and was on my own as I reached the hills around Helmsdale, which were steep but luckily not too long.  The sun came out and I met up with the tandem again, and we made good time in reaching Wick.  Here I stopped to confirm a cycle reservation which I had made for next day's return train journey from Thurso to Montrose, but the station was closed and I spent an extremely frustrating hour on my mobile phone trying to get in touch with Scotrail, only to be kept on hold.

With nothing resolved, I started off on the last 20 or so miles to John o'Groats.  The wind was still up, but the sun and scenery made this a wonderful last stretch, and soon I had reached my destination.  I checked into the Seaview Hotel, then headed down to the harbour for the obligatory photo.

Later in the evening I was joined by Laurence and Mark in the Seaview resturaunt, and we spent a few hours comparing notes and experiences from the trip.  By 11pm (the latest I'd been up all week) I was extremely tired and trailed off to bed.

STATS
Depart:        5am

Arrive:         7pm

Distance:     144 miles

Ride time:   11.27

Av. speed:   12.7 mph

Temp:          6 - 16c

Wind:          18 - 30 mph NE (headwind)

TOTAL DISTANCE:  875

The day after - down to Montrose

The alarm was set for a luxurious 8am, but through habit I was wide awake at 6.  I stayed in bed till 7, then got dressed and went over to the Seaview for breakfast.  It was a sunny morning so I cycled down to the seafront for a wander before heading off to Thurso to catch the train down to Montrose.

I had been warned that it could be very problematic getting your bike on the Thurso-Inverness train as it only accommodates 2 bikes.  I had tried to make a cycle reservation before setting off but the best I could come up with was a code given to me over the phone, and this had been worrying me the whole trip.  Would the code work, and would I get to my destination?

I had plenty of time, and for once the wind was behind me as I headed along the coast road past the Gills Bay ferry port (to the Orkneys) and the road to the Dunnet Head lighthouse, which I had visited as a child.  By 12 I was in Thurso and eating a sausage roll in the pedestrianised High Street.  At the train station I was assured that my code would be sufficient to ensure a place on the train, and I was reassured to see that there weren't any other cyclists waiting.

On the train I met up with Laurence and Mark (as we had arranged) who had caught the train at Wick and talked more about our journeys.  Laurence was obviously a keen cyclist, but Mark (stoker of the tandem) had never ridden more than 40 miles before setting of on their 9-day LEJoG, which made his accomplishment all the more amazing.

I had to change trains in Inverness and Aberdeen before arriving in Montrose at 9pm.  From there I cycled the last 6 miles to the seaside destination where I would spend the next couple of weeks relaxing and reflecting on the events of the week just gone.

Summary - the good and bad

I thought it would be useful to summarise my overall feelings about the trip.  As things stand, I only have good memories about the whole experience - any negatives have been forgotten and I'm left with a great sense of achievement.  I thought it would also be worthwhile noting what technically worked well and what didn't.

HIGHLIGHTS

Day 2 - following the river through the Wye valley under a canopy of trees for a few miles.

Day 4 - the approach into Edinburgh on the A7, a gradual, sweeping downhill - 10 miles cruising along at speeds touching 30mph.

Day 5 - the stretch of A9 from Perth to Carrbridge through the highlands.  This was the only day I had some tailwind, and the scenery was spectacular.  There were even a few hours of sun!  Made me remember why I liked cycling.

LOW POINTS

Day 1 - the Cornish hills into a headwind with a steady drizzle.

Day 2 - the youth hostel at Leominster.  It was a pretty dreadful experience - no chair to sit on, and I couldn't even sit on the bunk bed it was so small.  No bath to soak in, and generally very depressing.  Never again - B&B's and Travelodges from now on.

Day 4 - lying awake in Dalkeith with a swollen hand worrying that I wouldn't be able to continue the next day.

Day 6 - the bridges near Inverness and the hills around Helmesdale, all into a cold and strong headwind.

EQUIPMENT

The bike and other bits of equipment were bulletproof.  Only one puncture for the entire trip and that was soon mended.  The Garmin Vista HCx was great - it froze a couple of times but this was sorted out by powering it off and on.  In the whole 870 miles I only took a couple of wrong turnings, and each time it was because I followed road signs rather than trusting the Garmin.

The Creek2Peak rackbag worked well as usual.  Unfortunately I often stashed away too much food in it, worrying about running out in the middle of nowhere (which I never did).  I actually arrived in John o'Groats with 4 large Viennese Whirls and various other luxuries totally surplus to requirements!  If future I'll try and curb my urge to make impulse purchases.

CLOTHING

I could have done with a warmer long-sleeve jersey.  On a couple of occasions I was forced to wear my waterproof jacket as an extra layer just to keep warm.  Also, in future I'll take leg-warmers rather than tights - lighter and easier to put on/take off.

The only items of clothing not worn at all were the waterproof socks, but I guess that says much about the lack of heavy rain!

ROUTE

Whilst the route couldn't be described as traditionally "picturesque", especially through much of England, it was certainly effective in making for a speedy trip without too many lumps.  Once I got used to being on A roads (much of their length being dual-carriageway) it was no more worrying than cycling around London.  I guess you get used to anything.  For added safety I left my rear light flashing for the whole day - it's bright enough to be seen in daylight.

WEATHER

I think you should just forget about the "prevailing south-westerly" winds theory that says you have a better chance of a following wind if starting from Land's End in the summer months.  I had head winds for 80% of the 6 days, and not for the first time cycling to Scotland in May either.  In fact, this year the winds blew from the east throughout the last week of April and the whole of May (five weeks in total), often veering from the north, as on my trip, especially the last day when it was particularly unpleasant.

I was lucky with rain - just a few hours on the first day and a few bits of drizzle thereafter.  Sun was at a premium also, only having a handful of hours over the six days.  Low blanket cloud was ever-present, only occasionally breaking to allow the skies to brighten.

Temperatures were low for the time of year, averaging 6 - 8c in the early morning rising to 14 - 18c in the afternoon.  Certainly not warm, and my long-sleeve top and tights were kept on for the whole trip!

CONCLUSION

I'm very glad I did it.  Now it's over I have memories that will stay with me and a sense of achievement that is palpable.  I'm glad I tried for the 6 days - it turned out to be fairly easily achievable.  A bit of me thinks I could have completed in 5 days - maybe next year!

Good luck to everyone who attempts this - you won't be disappointed.